|
This
section is for those who, although not involved in the clothing or
footwear sectors, wish to learn about the main fabrics, their composition
and usage.
Our aim is
to offer less experienced visitors an easy guide and a little additional
general knowledge.
Fabrics
are formed from the interweaving of threads. The longitudinal threads of
the warp, parallel and drawn on the loom, are crossed with the transversal
ones of the tram. The different way the threads cross forms the weave of
the fabric.
|
WEAVE |
TRAITS |
|
Cloth |
The "cloth" weave is
the simpliest: every thread of the tram is passed above and below
each thread of the warp. Cloths are very durable and are used for
light fabrics. The threads of the warp and tram can have the same
colour or two diferent colours, in which case a cloth with a design
or very small squares is produced. |
| Saia |
"Saia" is the most
commonly used weave in the production of wool fabrics and is one of
the most durable. The tram thread goes over two or at most four warp
threads; then it moves one thread to the right or the left, forming
diagonal intersections which are a trait of this weave. |
| Raso |
In the " Raso" weave
the points of intersection between the tram and warp are minimal.
The tram thread goes under four or more warp threads in a staggered
fashion, leaving the warp threads lose. Fabrics with this weave
appear smooth and uniform, but wear much more easily. |
| Panama |
The "Panama" weave is
a variant on the "Cloth" weave. Here the warp and tram threads are
coupled or multiple, and do not intersect. This weave is slacker and
is less-durable than the "Cloth" weave. |
|
Pile |
In the "Pile" weave an
additional tram thread is added to the basic weave (cloth or saia),
which is lengthened in rings on the fabric surface. These rings are
then cut or shaven, as in the case of plush or velvet, or are left
as rings, of varying sizes, as in the case of spunge-cloth. |
| Jaquard |
Design fabric weaves
require special equipment attached to the loom. One of these is the
"Jaquard" weave in which the tram and warp threads, checked
individually by an appliance, interweave and in so doing create
complex designs. Jaquard fabrics are very costly because it takes a
long time to work them on the loom. |
|
Textile
fibres
Internat.
fibres
